Kebab Mahal, Edinburgh

Offering: Naan King Doner

Establishment: Kebab Mahal, Edinburgh

Date and time: 31st December 2016, 15:02

Price: £5.99

Seating: Around 20 seats and 6 tables, often a waiting time.


Like Lazeez, Kebab Mahal is one of those places that has been around for decades, it looks basic from the outside and but you can tell how well loved it is by the hustle and bustle of the passing and repeat custom it receives. Often, people who enter the doors know the owner by name and this is usually a good indication that if the place was not here, it would be sorely missed. Also like Lazeez, the interior of this place is so understated that many people would never give it a second thought or would be put off by the lack of sophistication - those people probably eat entire pizzas with a knife and fork. The awards on display at the far wall are a telling sign; this place spends it's money on the food rather the decor.

I had to stop coming here for a while. Not because I wasn't a fan of the food - au contraire; the owner and his son knew exactly what I wanted every time I walked through that old-fashioned door: the Naan King Doner (that's what I like to call it, it really rolls off the tongue). I felt slight embarrassment that I had become so predictable and that I had been coming so frequently, I decided I would not have a doner from Kebab Mahal for a good six or so months. On the tail end of the year, I returned only to be greeted by the bearded owner with my order known in advance and told to me before I had uttered a word, almost as if the owner was looking at a clock and spoke the time - I couldn't escape it - they knew everything; the extra chilli, the extra onions, the slight splash of yogurt sauce! It would take much longer than only six months before they would ever forget my order. I really don't know whether this would be impressive if I was to attend to a kebab with company; would my friends be impressed? more than likely, they would joke that I was too deeply entrenched in the doner underworld and that there was now no turning back.

As I sat down on one of the round tables, I asked the garcon for his finest, most delectable of table waters to which he assisted in large jug accompanied by a small glass tumbler. The service was, as usual quite speedy, the fresh naan arrived with a chunky topping of doner meat and a sparse yet simple salad consisting of all the usual suspects but with an added yet often overlooked compadre - white cabbage.  Often enough, red cabbage is the desired accompaniment of the cabbage family, however in this particular establishment white cabbage seems to be considered amongst the penultimate items that deliver a higher state of doner consciousness. I don't completely disagree. I do however prefer red cabbage. Red cabbage feels like it can be overloaded in a kebab and it would not usually ruin it however, I've found that when the same happens with its white counterpart, it can feel far too crowded a kebab and must be shredded to thinner pieces. Another seriously enjoyable aspect of the red cabbage is the fact that it often comes soaked in a pickle vinegary liquid, similar to the jalapenos juice - a very desirable liquid indeed but this liquid, this liquid is not here as we have fresh white cabbage. Instead, the entire salad is soaked in a zingy lemon dressing, it really brings a captivating succulence to the entire experience.

...when the chilli sauces are having their way for you, make room for the captivating yogurt supremo!

The lady in red, lumpy and thick with it's chunks and probably slightly dry when compared to its sistren sauces; it contains a burn comparable to that of Original Best Kebab House.  There is a sister in red too; a sweeter, runnier affair. Whist the lady is quite an intense vinegar heavy condiment, the sister is way less dominant and lets her sibling take over as the main attraction.

And when it all becomes too much, when the chilli sauces are having their way for you, make room for the captivating yogurt supremo! Your stimulated taste buds will be cooled by it's creamy, runny coriander touch.

The doner meat has been cut medium to thin, think about as thick as Marmaris but not as wide cuts. This meat also extremely heavy, settles in your stomach like the meat of a burger and I'm certain that it is entirely beef, this is also ensured by the texture that tastes much more dense rather than the floatier, lighter taste of lamb. The meat has been seasoned to a medium spiciness but with the added density of the beef, the spiciness appears to be amplified.

The naan bread was fresh, warm and thick. It had all the delightful air bubbles that give it a wispy, soft texture. A grand companion to it's splendid content.

As I finish polishing off this fine feast, I look to the wall to my right and tell myself the same thing I do every time I come here after looking at the numerous awards indicated: I must one day get a curry here and one day I will but until the very charming owner forgets my order upon entry, I feel I really can't challenge the man.

Verdict: 8/10

Large Doner Kebab, Marmaris, Edinburgh

Offering: Large Doner Kebab

Establishment: Marmaris Kebab House (South Clerk St.), Edinburgh

Date and time: 21st November 2016, 19:34

Price: £7.50

Seating: Over 20 simple seats

There comes a time when when despite how good the food of an establishment is, if the service received is so underwhelming, it automatically has an effect on how you perceive their doner. If you go somewhere and find that they have very little value for the customer and appear to consider the customer to be a nuisance to their day-to-day lives, you may ask yourself 'Well, how good is the doner there anyway? is it really worth having to face staff members that consider you beneath them?' - this is my experience of Marmaris Kebab House.

I don't want you to be alarmed. It's not like every person behind the counter in Marmaris threatens you with a kebab skewer as soon as you greet them but there are definitely a few issues with the attitude of the staff and they need addressing if they want to reverse the bad feeling against them. If you don't believe me, just take a look at the Trip Advisor comments where you will find various users accusing the staff of discrimination to outright violence. I no longer wish to go into too much detail about the staff as whilst my experience of them has been unsatisfactory, I have thankfully never experienced any violence.

An especially great aspect of their kebabs is the presentation. Looking at the photo above, I feel that their plate set up and accompanying sauce bowls are truly a thing of beauty. It's not always that you can say that about lamb doner either; many people I've known are turned off by the fact that the average doner kebab is hardly a feast to their inexperienced anti-kebabist eyes. It could also be argued though that those people are snobs and barely qualify as people and that they should not be allowed to vote.

The experience of pouring your sauce on the thin curved lamb slithers also adds a ceremonial sense to this occasion. The salad is very appealingly cut, in nice small pieces and all the usual suspects are present, they seem to have been lightly dressed in a lemon juice and combined with finely chopped coriander. Oh, what's this? fried potato sticks, of a previously frozen nature? Why not? I never expected to see you rear your respectable head in this neck of the woods. All this would be a masterclass in doner accompaniments had it nor been for the fact that it's just too much gimmicks and not enough doner! Taking a look at the photos and you find that salad and chips take up around two thirds to a half of the actual plate - I never asked for this!

I just wanted a large doner kebab, a nice big portion of meat, stuffed in pita bread with salad and sauce. What I got was a bleak look into the motivations of stingy kebab seller.

The chips are nothing special, they seem to just take up space and if they weren't there, they would not be sorely missed...

You can really tell the plentiful vegetable content of the chilli sauce when you begin to pour and see it land on the meat as it begins to separate into the smaller curvatures of the doner. There are also bottles of tangy salad sauce at every table in this establishment and if you're a bit strange, you can add some vinegar and so forth. Whilst the sauce adds a decent level of moistness to the meat, there isn't really a great deal of flavour - there is a tang but there is not much else at all, quite disappointing.

The chips are nothing special, they seem to just take up space and if they weren't there, they would not be sorely missed - fewer chips and more meat would be a step in the right direction. I'm not so sure I like having to fill the pita bread up with the doner and salad either, it seems like quite a task when presented like this, it will inevitably lead to a smaller filled kebab too as you will likely worry about getting it's contents on you and you will probably play it safe, just like I did - eating the rest of the meat without it's bread companion is not as satisfying.

The doner meat is good, its well seasoned and the quality can be compared to Topkapi but it still falls short of their standard. I will say though, the seasoning of the Marmaris meat is far better than Topkapi.

For all its pomp, for all it's grandiose presentation and it's plentiful seats, it's early opening hours and it's weekday lunchtime special prices, the Marmaris doner falls short for it suffers from stingy portions and sub-par sauce. To add insult to injury, I was charged more than I expected - Marmaris do not charge you the fee shown on their menu board if you choose to sit in. They don't clarify this on their menu board either; you can't help but feel a little bit stung by their staff members upon the sit-in visit. For this quantity and quality, it just isn't worth it.

Verdict: 6/10

Large Doner Kebab Sandwich, Zenobia, Edinburgh

Offering: Large Doner Kebab Sandwich

Establishment: Zenobia, Edinburgh

Date and time: 17th November 2016, 13:05

Price: £5 (concessions)

Seating: Many seats, primarily a restaurant.


Friends, I think I'm been followed. Not on this blog but indeed the real world. It would seem that my face is becoming a regular fixture in doner establishments - that would at least explain the discounts I get given randomly by familiar faces behind the counter. I'm not complaining, in fact, this is perhaps the only time I get a regular discount in any sort of establishment and I'm really grateful for it. Anytime you see the word concessions next to the price of the item, that is indicative of a delightful doner friend-ed discount, such establishments deserve your special attention for they have helped democratise the doner. They are friends of the people. The common man. 

I know what your thinking - the informer has went all posh, it was only a matter of time before the greedy bastard had his cake and eat it! May I remind you though, renting the plate cost nothing here - the cost of £5 for a doner 'sandwich' is indeed excellent value but how does the kebab taste.

Indeed, Zenobia is perfectly located for anyone near the bridges, the former MacDoners (well named but not a great doner!) is in such a busy thoroughfare, everyone that's ever been to Edinburgh is likely to have passed it at some point.

My first impressions are that the sandwich itself is quite small and the doner carvings do look quite pale and bland. This would normally be quite off-putting but remembering the price of this doner, I thought that there was very little to be expected.

The lift is tremendous - the kebab is marvellously constructed if quite oddly filled. The meat seems to take up two thirds of the sandwich itself whereas the salad, whilst delightful, with the addition of carrots, coriander, red lettuce and various other mixed herbs, is far too plentiful and it results in an uncommon crunch, something not normally associated with doner.

...gives a good solid burn and with the creamy sauce...

You would be forgiven for thinking that the sauces are absent in this doner, there seems be very little to show for them, however, when you take a bite, a pink creamy sauce oozed from the bottom as well as an oil-based green sauce (special requests allow for a double helping of this magical substance) that really gives a good solid burn and with the creamy sauce, it satisfyingly scratches an itch.

The doner within is unlike any other doner I've had before - the texture is reasonable and in some ways tastes like turkey (it;s lamb though, according to the menu at least). The seasoning of it though, it has an uncommon savoury cheese taste to it, making it amongst the most distinctive doner meat in this city. It wouldn't surprise me if there was a powdered cheese style ingredient specially seasoned to give that doner it's cheesy kick.

The bread is an Arabic khobz  bread; holds together very well and no sauce would ever seep through it but some with sensitive teeth might find it a bit hard to eat through.

The size of this sandwich is also quite small, not terrible at this price point, however, every time I don, I expect to be pretty filled up, regardless of the price - I was not as satisfied as I could have been and I would quite happily pay a little extra for a bigger sandwich - an option not advertised at the time.

It's all over. The fat lady has sung. All too soon, this doner was probably taken care of in a matter of a few minutes. Whilst I was really hungry, I can't help but feel that many who walk through those black painted, glass-fronted doors are probably going to leave this place unsatisfied, mainly due to portion size rather than the quality of food though.

Verdict: 7/10